Hoy Shoe Company • Est. 1944

It started with two families, a factory floor, and a scrap of leather.

The story of how a World War II shoemaker and his brother-in-law built a sandal that four generations of families would never stop wearing.
scroll to read ↓
1944

It was wartime. And in America, everything was rationed.

Dairy. Meat. Sugar. Tires. Gasoline. And leather, the kind used to make shoes. The U.S. Office of Price Administration distributed coupon books to every household, setting strict limits on what a family could buy. You couldn't just walk into a store and buy your children new shoes. You had to wait your turn.

In St. Louis, Missouri, two men decided they weren't going to wait.

Sam Bown worked at the International Shoe Company, one of the largest shoe manufacturers in the country. He knew leather. He knew construction. He knew what a well-made shoe looked like from the inside out. His brother-in-law, Walter Hoy, was a shoemaker with the kind of hands that could turn almost anything into something wearable.

Together, they noticed something. The military boot factories running around the clock across St. Louis were generating scraps of leather, pieces too small or too irregular for army boots, that were piling up with nowhere to go. Most people saw waste. Sam and Walter saw something else entirely.

Sam knew the leather was good. The same quality going into boots built for the front lines. Walter knew what to do with it. So they started collecting those scraps. And late into the evenings, after their regular work was done, the two of them began cobbling the leather together into something new: a pair of sandals, small enough for a child's foot.

Original Salt Water Sandals sole design blueprint
The original sole design blueprints from the Hoy Shoe Company archives.

The first pair Walter ever made was for his daughter.

Her name was Margery.

· · ·

He made them tough because kids are tough on shoes. He made them comfortable because kids don't sit still. And he made them from leather that could handle water, sand, puddles, and everything else a childhood throws at a pair of shoes.

Margery wore her sandals everywhere. To the park. To school. Through the sprinkler in the backyard. Into the creek at the edge of town. And every time she came home, the sandals were still on her feet. A little wetter, a little more broken in, and fitting a little better than before.

The neighbors noticed. Then their friends noticed. And before long, families from all over St. Louis were showing up asking Sam and Walter the same question:

Can you make a pair for my kids?

They could. And they did. Sam sourced the leather. He knew exactly where to find the best scraps, which cuts would hold up, which hides had the right weight for a child's sandal. Walter shaped them. One pair at a time, hand-cut and hand-stitched from reclaimed military leather, the word spread across St. Louis. The sandals that were born from wartime scarcity became the shoes that every family in the neighborhood wanted.

Neither of them set out to build a company. Walter set out to make his daughter a pair of shoes. Sam saw an opportunity to put his leather knowledge to work for the people around him. But together, they built something neither could have built alone. The quality of what they created turned out to be something the world wasn't willing to let go of.

1950s–80s

From one St. Louis neighborhood to every coastline in America.

The war ended. The rationing stopped. But the demand for their sandals didn't. What started as a side project between two brothers-in-law became a real business: the Hoy Shoe Company. Sam's knowledge of the leather trade and Walter's craftsmanship proved to be the perfect partnership. As both families grew, so did the company. Their children joined them. They learned the trade from their fathers' hands. How to cut the leather. How to stitch it so it would last. How to shape it so it would soften and mold to the wearer's foot over time.

The sandals left St. Louis. They showed up on beaches in California, on boardwalks in New Jersey, on kids playing in the red clay of Georgia summers. Mothers bought them for their daughters. Then those daughters grew up and bought them for their own children.

The sandal was no longer just a shoe. It was a tradition being passed down.


1944
Founded

1950s
St. Louis icon

1960s
Goes national

1970s
Beach culture

1980s
American classic

1990s
Next generation

2000s
Global reach

2020s
4th generation
The secret

There's something Sam and Walter figured out in 1944 that most people still don't know.

Sam's years at International Shoe Co taught him something most shoemakers never learned. Which leathers could take a beating, and which ones actually got better with exposure. When Walter made those first sandals for Margery, they didn't try to keep the leather away from water. They designed for it.

The leather is crafted with a protective outer film that makes it naturally water-resistant. When you wear Salt Water Sandals into the ocean, through a puddle, under a garden hose, or into a swimming pool, the water doesn't ruin the leather. It does the opposite. The water helps the leather soften and mold to the unique shape of your foot.

That's why we tell every new customer the same thing Sam and Walter would have told you in 1944:

The best way to wear them
is to get them wet first.

It's the same leather. The same technique. The same result. For eighty years, the first thing a Salt Water Sandal wants to do is get to know your feet. And water is how the introduction happens.

Today

Four generations later, we're still a family making sandals for families.

The Hoy Shoe Company is now in its fourth generation of family ownership. The descendants of Sam Bown and Walter Hoy carry forward the same principles those two brothers-in-law established in that St. Louis workshop eighty years ago: make them well, make them last, and make them for the people who matter most.

What Sam and Walter started as two families working side by side has become one continuous family legacy. We've never been acquired by a conglomerate. We've never chased trends that don't serve our customers. We've never compromised on the leather, the construction, or the belief that a sandal should be something you wear in, not something you throw out.

Today, Salt Water Sandals and Sun-San Sandals are worn by families on every continent. From the beaches of Australia to the cobblestones of London to the boardwalks of the Jersey Shore. Mothers who wore them as children now buy them for their own daughters. And their daughters are already asking for matching pairs for their baby dolls.

The Hoy family today
The Hoy family. Four generations of shoemakers, carrying forward what Sam Bown and Walter Hoy started in St. Louis.

Full Circle

Remember Margery?

The little girl Walter made his very first pair for. His daughter. Sam's niece. The reason any of this exists.

In 1991, we retired a sandal style named after her. The Margery. A slide-on with a big buckle and effortless all-day comfort. For thirty-five years, customers asked us to bring it back.

In 2026, we did.

Some things are worth bringing back. The Margery is one of them. Named after the girl who started it all, redesigned for the women and girls who carry the tradition forward. If there's a single sandal that tells our entire story in one pair, it's this one.

What we believe. What we build.

🌊
Made for Water
Our leather is designed to get wet. The ocean, the pool, the sprinkler. Bring it on. The water helps the sandal mold to your foot. That's not an accident. It's 80 years of intention.
🤝
Family First
We make the same styles in women's and kids' sizes, from babies to adults. Because this brand was born from a father's love for his daughter. Matching is encouraged.
♻️
Built to Last
We don't make disposable sandals. We never have. Every pair is designed to be worn in, not thrown out. Quality leather, honest construction, and a fit that only gets better with time.

Since 1944

Worn in. Never worn out.

Sam and Walter made the first pair for Margery.

Now we make them for you.

Join the Family

Passed down. Never outgrown.
Be the first to know about new arrivals, family stories, and exclusive offers.

15% off your first order when you join.